Crested gecko vivarium after glass cracked

A cracked vivarium is a serious situation — both stressful for your gecko and a sign that the original build quality just wasn't up to scratch. Reptile welfare is almost entirely determined by getting the environment right: temperature gradient, UV lighting, humidity, and substrate all need to match the species' natural habitat, and a failed enclosure undoes all of that overnight. Getting this wrong causes chronic stress and illness, so it's important you replace it with something built properly. To point you in the right direction — how old is your crested gecko, what size was the enclosure that failed, and are you looking to replace like-for-like or take the opportunity to upgrade?

Yes, 45x45x60cm is exactly right for an adult crested gecko — tall rather than wide, which suits their arboreal nature. The storage box will do as a short-term fix but humidity control is very limited in those, and cresties need 60–80% humidity with a good drop overnight. The issue you hit is a known one with cheaper glass terrariums: the silicone bonding on the base panel is often rushed or under-specified, and with the weight of substrate and water it gives way. Can I ask — did the old one have front-opening doors, and did you have live plants or bioactive substrate in there?

That's a sensible approach — get the enclosure right first, then build toward bioactive when you're ready. For an adult crested gecko replacing that exact footprint, I'd go straight to the Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 45x45x60cm. It's the benchmark enclosure for this species — dual front-opening doors with a lock, a raised base frame that allows an under-tank heater if you ever need one, a full-screen top for ventilation and UV lamp fitting, and the closable inlets at the front for cable management. Most importantly, the glass and silicone construction is genuinely robust; Exo Terra has been the industry standard for good reason. It's available on Amazon UK and typically sits around £130–£150. Everything you already have — substrate mix, plants, lighting — transfers straight across.

Yes — set the new vivarium up completely and let it stabilise for 24 hours before moving her in. Get the temperature sitting at 22–25°C at the warm end, ambient around 20°C, and mist thoroughly so humidity is already in range. When you transfer her, move as much of the existing substrate and any hides or cork bark as you can — familiar smells reduce stress significantly. Expect her to hide for a few days; that's normal settling behaviour, not illness. Avoid handling for at least a week after the move. She'll come round faster than you'd expect once the environment feels right.

Good call — it'll serve you well for years, and it's genuinely bioactive-ready when you decide to go that route. If you run into any questions about the setup once it arrives, whether that's lighting positioning or building out the substrate layers, feel free to come back.