This is a specific conversation about Reptile heating and lighting — the critical factors — ask about yours and get one honest answer for your exact situation.
inparticular.ai
Your vet has flagged something really important — poor skin condition in iguanas is almost always a UV and photoperiod problem, and it's genuinely one of the most fixable things once you get the lighting right. Getting UV output and light duration correct is the single most important factor in iguana health; inadequate UVB causes poor shedding, dull skin, and leads directly to metabolic bone disease if left uncorrected. To point you toward the right solution: what size is your enclosure, how old is your iguana roughly, and what bulb are you currently running — brand, percentage, and how long has it been in use?
He's about 18 months old, enclosure is roughly 150cm tall by 90cm wide. I've been using a Zoo Med T8 5.0 UVB tube for about a year. Photoperiod is currently 10 hours.
inparticular.ai
Right, so there are two problems working together here. First, a T8 5.0 is quite weak for a green iguana — they're a species from high-altitude tropical environments and need a UV index of 4–6 in the basking zone, which a T8 5.0 struggles to deliver even when new. After a year it will have lost most of its UV output even if it still glows. Second, 10 hours is too short — iguanas need 13–14 hours of light daily to support proper vitamin D3 synthesis and appetite. Can I ask: where is the basking branch positioned relative to the current bulb? And does he have a separate basking heat source as well?
The branch is probably about 40cm below the bulb. Yes, he has a basking spot lamp as well, gets to about 38 degrees Celsius up there.
inparticular.ai
Good — the basking temperature is actually spot on for a green iguana. The 40cm distance is workable but it's your UV source that's the real problem, and your vet is absolutely right to flag it. Here's what I'd recommend: the Arcadia T5 HO 12% Forest Dragon lamp in a 54W T5 fixture. For a green iguana at 40cm distance, the 12% T5 HO delivers a UV index of around 4–6 right in that basking zone, which is exactly what your vet is after. It's a significant upgrade from a T8 5.0 in both output and longevity — replace it every 12 months regardless of whether it's still glowing. Pair that with setting your timer to 13.5 hours and you should see a real improvement in shedding and skin condition within one or two shed cycles.
Is the 12% not too strong? I've seen people say high UVB can burn iguanas.
inparticular.ai
It's a fair concern but at 40cm distance the 12% T5 HO sits comfortably within the recommended UV index range for green iguanas — it's not the same as putting a desert 14% tube two inches from a gecko. The key is that your iguana must be able to move away from the UV zone, which in a 150cm tall enclosure he absolutely can. Iguanas self-regulate UV exposure naturally when given the choice. Burning from UVB in a properly set up enclosure is extremely rare; the far more common problem — which your vet has already identified — is chronic UVB deficiency. You're correcting an underexposure problem, not creating an overexposure one.
That makes sense. Is the Arcadia fitting easy to install and available on Amazon UK?
inparticular.ai
Yes, the Arcadia T5 HO ProT5 kit — which includes the reflector hood and starter — is listed on Amazon UK and is straightforward to install. The kit comes with everything you need: the hood, the tube, and the controller. Just mount it along the top of the enclosure, position it so the basking branch sits 35–45cm below it, set your timer to 13.5 hours, and you're done. Note the installation date somewhere — 12 months and you replace the tube whether it looks fine or not. Given your vet has already raised this, I'd move on it sooner rather than later; the longer the deficiency continues the longer the recovery.