This is a specific conversation about Rabbit housing — space and setup that works — ask about yours and get one honest answer for your exact situation.
inparticular.ai
Wire-floor cages are one of the most common causes of sore hocks in rabbits — and Beverens are particularly prone because of their size and weight. Before we get into the fix, I should mention that most hutches and cages sold in pet shops are far too small to begin with. Rabbits need enough room for at least three full hops, the ability to stand completely upright on their hind legs, and separate areas for sleeping and toileting. A sore-hock problem is urgent though, so let's sort that first. Is your rabbit housed indoors or outdoors, and what does the current setup look like — cage size, what's underneath the wire right now?
He's indoors in a metal cage, roughly 120cm x 60cm. At the moment there's just the bare wire floor — I put a small towel in one corner but he doesn't really use it. His feet look red and a bit raw underneath.
inparticular.ai
Red and raw means this needs covering completely and right away — partial coverage isn't enough because he'll still spend time on the wire. For a Beveren especially, you want something that's soft, washable, non-slip, and doesn't let claws snag. What's he currently eating and how old is he? And has he seen a vet about the feet yet, or are you managing this at home?
He's about two years old, eating pellets and hay. I haven't been to the vet yet — the redness only appeared in the last week or so. I wanted to sort the flooring first and see if it improves.
inparticular.ai
Good instinct to tackle the cause immediately. If the redness doesn't start improving within a week of removing all wire contact, do get him to a vet — sore hocks can ulcerate quickly in larger breeds like Beverens if left. For the flooring, the product I'd point you to is Vetbed Original Veterinary Bedding. It's a dense, non-slip, machine-washable fleece used in veterinary clinics specifically because it's gentle on skin and feet, wicks moisture away, and doesn't snag claws the way loose fabric or carpet can. Cut it to fit the entire floor of the cage so there's no wire exposed at all. Get two pieces so you always have a clean one while the other's in the wash — rabbit urine contact with sore skin will slow healing down. You'll find it on Amazon UK sold by the metre or in pre-cut kennel sizes.
That sounds really practical. Should I put anything underneath it, or is the Vetbed enough on its own directly over the wire?
inparticular.ai
For the short term, Vetbed directly over the wire is fine — its density means he won't feel the grid through it. If you want to go a step further, a thin foam camping mat or a rubber-backed bath mat cut to size underneath the Vetbed will completely eliminate any flex in the floor and make it feel more solid underfoot, which some rabbits prefer. Just make sure whatever's underneath can't be chewed — rabbits will often explore edges. Longer term, it's worth thinking about whether that 120x60cm cage is giving him enough space. For a Beveren, that's genuinely tight. But flooring first — that's the right priority right now.
Really helpful, thank you. I'll order the Vetbed today and look into a bigger enclosure too.
inparticular.ai
That's the right call on both counts. When you're looking at larger setups, aim for at least 180cm in length for a Beveren — they're a big breed and need the run space. A pen that can attach to the cage works well indoors and gives him room to stretch without you needing a completely new unit. Hope his feet are looking better very soon.
