This is a specific conversation about Dog recall training — tools and treats that help — ask about yours and get one honest answer for your exact situation.
inparticular.ai
A 10-month-old Treeing Walker Coonhound with a nose that overrides everything — that's one of the toughest recall challenges there is. Coonhounds were literally bred to follow a scent trail and ignore everything else, so this isn't a training failure, it's genetics doing its job. The good news: reliable recall is absolutely buildable, but you need to practice on a long line so the dog can't self-reward by disappearing into a scent trail, and you need a treat that genuinely competes with whatever's on the ground. Can you tell me a bit more — how far gone is the recall when a scent kicks in, and are you training outdoors in open spaces or somewhere more contained? Also, are you after training aids, high-value treats, or both?
It's completely gone once he hits a scent — he just zones out entirely. We're training in a big field mostly. I need both really, a long line and something treat-wise that might actually get through to him.
inparticular.ai
Right, a big open field with a scenthound in full nose-down mode — you definitely need a long line before anything else, because every time he disappears and self-rewards you're undoing your training. How long a line are you currently using, if any? And what have you tried treat-wise so far — are we talking kibble, standard training treats, or have you gone into proper high-value territory like meat?
No long line at the moment, he's just on a regular lead and I've been using those soft training treats from the pet shop. He ignores them completely once his nose is down.
inparticular.ai
That makes total sense — soft training treats aren't going to cut through a coonhound's scent fixation. You need something with a strong, meaty smell that he can actually detect even when he's locked onto a trail. Here's what I'd go with: for the long line, get a Longlery 10 Metre Dog Training Lead — it's a proper biothane line, doesn't tangle like rope, easy to handle wet or muddy, and 10 metres gives you real working distance in a field without losing control. For treats, switch to Natural Instinct Pure Chicken Training Treats — freeze-dried chicken with nothing added, strong smell, small pieces so you can reward fast and often without filling him up. The combination is what matters: long line means he can't self-reward by running off, and the chicken smell is strong enough to compete with ground scent, especially if you keep sessions short and end while he still wants more. Start recalls from just 5 metres and only extend the distance once he's turning to his name reliably at that distance.
That sounds really practical. Should I be doing anything specific with the long line, like reeling him in if he ignores the recall?
inparticular.ai
Yes, but gently — the long line is a safety net, not a punishment tool. If he doesn't respond to his recall cue within about three seconds, apply light pressure on the line to interrupt the scent lock, then the moment he turns toward you, instantly mark it with a 'yes' and show the treat. You're not dragging him back, you're just breaking the scent trance so he can make the choice to come. Once he's moving toward you, go big on the reward — multiple pieces, real enthusiasm. With a coonhound especially, you want coming back to you to feel like the best thing that happened all day. Never call him back to end the walk or do anything he finds unpleasant, or he'll start weighing up whether it's worth it.
That's really helpful, thank you. I'll get the biothane line and the freeze-dried chicken and give this a proper go.
inparticular.ai
Good plan. Be patient with the timeline — a coonhound at 10 months is also still adolescent, so his impulse control is genuinely limited right now on top of the breed instinct. Four to six weeks of consistent long-line work with those treats and you should start seeing real turns. Stick with it and he'll get there.