Crate training a Boston Terrier

Crate training works when the crate becomes a genuinely positive space — and for a brachycephalic breed like a Boston Terrier, that starting point matters even more than usual. Restricted airways mean stress and overheating are real risks during the introduction phase, so crate type, ventilation, and how slowly you build the association all need careful thought. To give you the right steer: what age is your Boston, are you starting from scratch or trying to undo a bad experience with the crate, and is this mainly for home use or travel?

Good context — starting fresh at 2 is absolutely fine, and the fact that he's not already anxious about a crate means you've got a clean slate to work with. Before I suggest anything, one quick question: does he show any signs of breathing difficulty at rest or when he gets excited? Snoring, snorting, open-mouth breathing? I ask because it affects how quickly I'd suggest moving through the introduction steps and what crate setup I'd recommend.

That's exactly what I'd expect for a Boston — moderate brachycephalic presentation, manageable but worth designing around. The key things for him are maximum airflow, no enclosed or fabric-panel sides, and a crate he can see out of easily so he doesn't feel trapped and start panting. Plastic travel crates are out for home use here — they trap heat and limit sightlines, both of which will spike his stress and breathing load before he's even settled. What you want is a fully open wire crate, sized so he can stand, turn, and lie stretched out without it being so large he treats it as a toilet area. For a Boston Terrier, a 24-inch crate is the right fit. I'd recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets iCrate — the single-door 24-inch version. It's all open wire so airflow is unrestricted on every side, it folds flat, has a removable tray, and crucially it comes with a divider panel so you can section it smaller during the first few weeks of training and expand it as he settles in. It's widely available on Amazon UK and it's genuinely the standard recommendation for good reason — it does everything right without any of the features that would cause problems for a dog like him.

Slower than you think you need to. The framework is: crate in the room with door open for a few days, treats and meals placed just inside the entrance, then further back over time. No closing the door until he's walking in voluntarily and relaxed. Once he is, you close it for literally 10 seconds, treat through the door, open it. Build duration in very small steps over days not hours. For a Boston specifically, never let him work himself into snorty, panting distress during a session — that's a sign you've moved too fast, and it also creates a physical association between the crate and breathing difficulty, which is hard to unpick. Keep sessions short and always end before he's uncomfortable. Room temperature matters too — wire crate, good ventilation in the room, no direct sun on the crate.

Yes, but keep it simple and breathable. A thin, washable fleece mat rather than a thick padded bed — Bostons overheat easily and a dense memory foam bed in a crate can become a problem. A worn t-shirt of yours is useful in the early stages for scent. One or two familiar toys are fine, but skip anything that could be shredded and swallowed while he's unsupervised. Once he's reliably settled and you're confident he's not distressed, you can add more comfort — but in the introduction phase, less is more. The goal is him choosing to go in, not you filling it with things to compensate for him not wanting to be there.