This is a specific conversation about Cat litter boxes — size, type, and placement — ask about yours and get one honest answer for your exact situation.
inparticular.ai
Five cats across two floors is exactly the kind of setup where litter box placement can make or break the peace. Most boxes are too small to begin with — cats need at least 1.5 times their body length to turn and dig comfortably — and covered boxes, while neater for you, often make cats feel cornered, which is a real problem when there's social tension in the house. Before I give you a layout plan, tell me: roughly how big are your cats, are any of them seniors or kittens, and what's going wrong right now — missing the box, avoiding it altogether, or cats ambushing each other near it?
They're all adults, mostly medium-sized, one is quite large — probably 6kg. The main issues are two of them ambushing the others near the boxes, and one cat who's started going on the floor next to the box instead of in it.
inparticular.ai
That's a classic guarding situation — one or two cats are controlling access to the boxes, so the more timid ones don't feel safe using them. The floor-going is almost certainly stress, not a medical issue, though it's worth a vet check if it's recent. The fix is escape routes and distribution. How many boxes do you have right now, and where are they — all in one room, spread around, or clustered by floor?
We have six boxes, four downstairs in the utility room and two upstairs on the landing. So they're all kind of grouped together.
inparticular.ai
That's the problem right there. Six boxes in two clusters means a dominant cat can guard both locations. You need to break those groups up and spread boxes to at least four or five separate spots so no single cat can patrol them all. For five cats the rule of thumb is one box per cat plus one — so six is the right number — but placement is doing all the heavy lifting here. Upstairs, split those two boxes to different rooms or ends of the landing. Downstairs, move boxes out of the utility room and into separate areas: one in the kitchen corner, one near the back door, one in a hallway. Each box should have two exit directions so a cat can't be cornered.
That makes sense. Should I be changing the boxes themselves too? Some of them are covered.
inparticular.ai
Yes — ditch the covered ones, especially given the ambush dynamic. A covered box is a trap for an anxious cat. For a five-cat home where size and conflict are both factors, I'd recommend the Catit Jumbo Hooded Cat Pan — but used without the hood. The base is genuinely large, roughly 59cm long, which works for your 6kg cat, and the high sides contain scatter without boxing the cat in. They're also inexpensive enough that replacing several at once isn't painful. Buy six of the Catit Jumbo bases, remove the hoods entirely or don't fit them, and redistribute across your two floors with the spacing we talked about. That single change — open boxes, spread out, with escape routes — will almost certainly stop the ambushing within a week or two.
Perfect, that's really clear. One more thing — does litter type matter for reducing conflict?
inparticular.ai
It matters less than placement, but it's worth being consistent. If you switch litters mid-intervention you won't know what's working. Stick with an unscented clumping litter — most cats strongly prefer it, and scented litters can actually increase avoidance. Keep the litter depth at around 5–8cm so they can dig properly. Once the box situation has settled down in a few weeks, you can experiment with litter type if you want to, but for now keep that variable stable.