Second cockatiel intro: separate cage first

Before your new cockatiel meets your existing bird, it needs its own separate cage — full stop. Quarantine for 30 days is the standard recommendation to protect your current bird from illness, and even after that, a second permanent cage gives each bird its own territory, which reduces stress and aggression significantly. Cage size is the single most important factor here: most cages sold as 'cockatiel cages' are too small for a bird to fully extend and flap its wings, which is a real welfare issue. Bar spacing also matters — cockatiels need 12–16mm spacing to prevent head entrapment. Can you tell me a bit more about your setup: is the new bird the same size as your current cockatiel, do you have a rough idea of the space available for a second cage, and is this intended as a permanent second cage or a temporary quarantine solution?

Perfect setup, actually — using the spare room for quarantine and keeping it as a permanent cage is exactly the right approach. For a single cockatiel with room to actually move and flap, I'd recommend the Vision Bird Cage Model L12. It's 54cm wide, 38cm deep and 91cm tall, which gives a cockatiel genuine space to stretch and climb rather than just perch in one spot. The bar spacing is 15mm — right in the safe zone for cockatiels. It also has a removable debris guard around the base which catches seed scatter, and the design means it's easy to clean thoroughly, which matters a lot during quarantine when you're monitoring the new bird's droppings closely. It's available on Amazon UK for around £120–£140 depending on when you look. Solid build, no sharp edges, and it holds up long-term — this isn't a cage you'll need to replace in a year.

Good instinct, but actually I'd do the opposite during quarantine. Keep the new bird's cage simple — one or two natural wood perches of varying diameter, a plain foraging toy, food and water in easy-to-monitor positions. You want to be able to spot any changes in droppings, food intake or behaviour quickly, and a cluttered cage makes that harder. Once quarantine is done and the bird has a clean bill of health, then you can start enriching the cage to match your existing bird's setup. The simplicity also reduces stress in those first days — a new bird in a new environment is already overwhelmed; giving it a calm, uncrowded space helps it settle faster.

Slowly, and always with the cages acting as a buffer first. Once your vet has confirmed the new bird is healthy, move the two cages into the same room but across from each other — let them see and hear each other for a week or two before any out-of-cage interaction. Then you can let them out in a neutral space at the same time, supervised, and watch the body language carefully. Fluffed feathers, chasing or biting means you need more time; mutual preening interest is a green light. Never put them in the same cage on day one of face-to-face meetings. Having two permanent cages long-term is actually ideal — even bonded cockatiels benefit from being able to retreat to their own space.

Good choice. Set it up a day or two before the new bird arrives so any paint or plastic smell has time to air out, and place it somewhere quiet in the spare room — away from windows with direct sun and away from any drafts. You're doing this the right way by sorting the cage before bringing the bird home. Good luck with the introduction.